Good news: I found a local doctor who speaks English. And he thinks
I'm abnormally skinny.
Not quite so good news: the right leg has a resilient infection that
causes the swelling between skin and muscle. Which explains a goodly
bit. He put me on some special antibiotics after first prescribing a
third round of the citroflox I've been on, and if it doesn't clear up,
I'll be put on IV medication. Fun!
Meantime, maybe this'll be a local med person who speaks English and
can diagnose without wikipedia.
And in the interim, here's hoping the multi-oscopy will provide some
answers.

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